Day 8 Manang to Yak Kharka

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Day 8

Manang

Yak Kharka

North

28°39.69'

28°43.11'

East

84°01.61'

83°58.59'

Altitude

3,606m

4,150m

Ascent

544m

Time

3 hours 40 minutes

Distance

9 kilometres

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Walk west through old Manang following the signposts to the Thorung La. The Manang Bhot have sensibly located almost all of the lodges outside of old Manang where they themselves live. At a huge tree by a water tap turn right and then immediately left again. Pass through a gateway. At a junction turn left and then first right. Mail your post cards at the Manang post box which you pass on the way out.

Tengi (25 minutes) is really just a suburb of Manang. It has a traditional style lodge, the Ongma. There is a standing stone in the path which appears to be used for ritual offerings. There are beautiful views from here down the Marsyandi Valley. Pass a chorten (55 minutes). At a fork in the path (1 hour 25 minutes) take the upper fork. Five minutes further on pass a small tea house. Its a good idea to drink as much tea as you can even though the price begins to rise with the increasing altitude. At 3,930 metres there are two hotels [28°40'81"N 84°00'14"E] the:

  • Jullu West
  • Marsyandi

This is the site of a seasonal or partly abandoned village. All around are overgrown and abandoned terraced cultivation plots. Perhaps the locals who gave up the struggle to farm here now work in the tourist industry.

The path turns north east briefly and crosses a bridge. There is a good view up the valley to Chullu East 6,584m and Chullu West 6,419m. The tea shop here sells warm clothes for unprepared trekkers, but don't expect bargain prices.

Yak Kharka (3 hours 40 minutes) is at 4,150 metres. Yak Kharka is Tibetan for yak pasture. There are two hotels, the:

  • Hotel Nyeshang
  • Gangapurna

Its so cold up here that the hotels put charcoal burners under the tables, which are covered with thick blankets to keep the heat in. Whatever you think of the safety aspects of this, it certainly keeps you warm. I was very grateful for my down jacket which had been a luxury until now.

Yak Kharka is a great place. Good food served by the prettiest waitresses on the Annapurna circuit. The view of Annapurna III is just as good. Gangapurna is just visible to the right. Annapurna II and Annapurna IV may be seen in the distance. There are also views to the north west of the Muktinath Himal range and the Thorung La. Enjoy the view, as tomorrow evening it will be out of sight.

Copyright Ian P Johnson October 1998