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Day 4 Bagarchap to Chame

Day 4

Bagarchap

Chame

North

28°31.74'

28°33.28'

East

84°20.64'

84°14.63'

Altitude

2,070m

2,600m

Ascent

530m

Time

3 hours 25 minutes

Distance

13 kilometres

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Follow the path over the avalanche debris past the Buddha Hotel and the first Buddhist prayer wall. Bagarchap marks the end of Hindu influence and the start of Buddhism in the valley.

After 15 minutes pass a suspension bridge but do not cross it. Continue along the left bank of the Marsyandi River past fields of barley. Manaslu may be seen behind you. Danaqu (20 minutes) is a new village where the lodges destroyed in Bagarchap are being rebuilt away from danger. In 1997 there were several under construction.

Pass through thick woods (1 hour) and over a concrete bridge by a waterfall. At Temang [28°31.53'N 84°18.82'E 2310m] (1 hour 15 minutes) there is a small lodge and the last view of Manaslu until Chame. Five minutes out of Temang there is a loose landslip area just above the Marsyandi River. Take care here.

Latamrang [28°32.28'N 84°18.39'E] (1 hour 50 minutes) has 3 lodges:

  • Tatopani
  • Tibetan Hotel
  • Mountain View

On the other side of the Marsyandi River, inaccessible since the bridge was washed away, is a hot spring. The Tatopani lodge has pictures of the owner on active service with the Gurka battalions of the British Army during the Gulf war.

After 25 minutes (2 hours 15 minutes) cross a small bridge. The road forks by an apple orchard. Take the lower path, its easier. This area has beautiful woodland. Some of it has been cleared, although this improves the view and allows flowers to flourish. A small lodge [28°32.76'N 84°17.31'E 2,571m] is a good place to stop for lunch.

The gateway to Kyupar village (3 hours 10 minutes) is reached after 20 minutes walk from the small lodge. Kyupar is opposite the Naur Khola valley, an ancient trade route into Tibet via the Luqula Banjyan Pass 6,260 metres. The entrance to the Naur Khola valley looks rather like El Capitan at the entrance to the Yosemite valley, California. There are at least 4 hotels:

  • Manaslu
  • Mustang
  • Eagle
  • Manang

Just before you leave Kyupar is a Police Post.

Chame (3 hours 25 minutes) lies 15 minutes beyond Kyupar. Chame was hit by a landslide in August 1997. It wrecked the provocatively named Peace Zone Hotel and buried the hot spring by the New Tibetan Hotel.

The New Tibetan Hotel is perched beneath a conglomerate cliff just above the Marsyandi River. The narrow strip of land on which it stands is threatened by erosion from the Marsyandi. The New Tibetan Hotel is also in danger of having its identity stolen by the New Tibet Inn. This newer hotel blocks the path to and obscures the view of the original New Tibetan Hotel. No doubt the local lawyers will soon have work to do.

The view from Chame includes Lamjung Himal 6,983 metres, Annapurna II 7,937 metres and Manaslu 8,156 metres.

 

Lamjung Himal seen from Chame

Chame is the administrative headquarters of the Manang region. It has 5 shops, a pharmacy, a branch of the Nepal Bank, a post office, the police headquarters (but they don't want to see your trekking permit), and a telecommunications shop. There is a doctor in Chame. Above the village just to the south is a gompa and numerous government buildings. To reach the small gompa, walk up the path between the Jupiter Hotel and the secondary school. Turn left at a stupa and then up a steep path.

Copyright Ian P Johnson October 1998