Day 18 Chomrong to Deurali

Day 3 Annapurna Sanctuary

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6 hours 20 minutes


13 kilometres

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Leave Upper Chomrong and walk down the stone stairs leading down the steep hill to the actual village of Chomrong. Pass the shop and the Captain's Lodge. The Captain speaks excellent English and is the headman of the village.

At the Chomrong Khola (20 minutes) cross the bridge, then begin to ascend. Pass through a small village (40 minutes) and then a bamboo forest (45 minutes) just before the little village of Bahunawa (50 minutes) [28°25.68'N 83°49.93'E] 2149 metres . In 1997 there was a fancy new hotel under construction here.

Sinawa (1 hour 35 minutes) [28°26.04'N 83°50.32'E] 2360 metres is perched 260 metres above Ghandruk which may be easily seen in the distance from this magnificent position. There are 4 hotels in Sinawa (2 hours 40 minutes). In Khuldi Ghar [28°27.40'N 83°51.56'E] there is an ACAP Post. The only other facility is a rubbish pit. The ACAP officers must get very bored here in the evenings.

Continue steeply up and then steeply down to Bamboo ( 3 hours 10 minutes) [28°27.40'N 83°51.56'E] 2190 metres where there are 3 lodges. Above Bamboo the path is quite rough. Tangled moss covered tree roots cross the path. Cross the Bamboo Khola using 2 bridges ( 3 hours 35 minutes) and further along cross another bridge (4 hours 10 minutes) to reach Dovan (4 hours 15 minutes) [28°28.18'N 83°52.39'E] 2600 metres.

Cross a stream to reach a ruined building, [28°28.52'N 83°52.85'E] presumably a lodge destroyed by an avalanche from Hiunchulli above on the left. The path here is on the edge of a steep drop down to the Modi Khola. As the ACAP safety signs say, 'Beautiful but Dangerous'. If you are trekking alone, be particularly careful in this area.

The path enters a region of wild primeval rhododendron forest. The trees are left untouched here for a God dwells in the forest hereabouts. By a waterfall is a modest shrine, the Shee Pozenhem Baraha temple. Offerings are left here by devotees for the local god. If only there were more local gods as powerful as this one, more of Nepal's natural beauty would remain unspoilt along the Annapurna Circuit.

There is a deep gorge to the right here. Excuse me if I sound like you mother, but do be careful here.

Reach Himalaya [28°29.25'N 83°53.39'E] 3245 metres, after a steep ascent (5 hours 20 minutes). Continue steeply up the valley climbing some stone stairs (5 hours 40 minutes). The path levels off just before Hinko Cave. (6 hours). The stone platforms in Hinko Cave are all that remains of a demolished lodge. Before the lodge was there, mountaineering expeditions camped here. Perhaps before that, this was a home for yeti.

Just a little further on Deurali may be seen in the distance. Gratefully arrive at Deurali (6 hours 20 minutes). It has been a long day, but well worth it. There are 4 small lodges here.

Copyright Ian P Johnson October 1998