Day 14 Kalopani to Tatopani

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6 hours


24 kilometres

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There is a police post at the southern end of Kalopani. Valuable time may be saved by checking out the previous night. At 24 kilometres today's walk is the longest on the itinerary, including a descent of 1,400 metres, only slightly less than the descent from the Thorung La to Muktinath. It's a long day so set out early.

Walk down the path on the right hand bank of the Kali Gandaki to Ghasa (1 hour 30 minutes) cross a bridge (2 hours) to the village of Tal Bagar on the left bank of the Kali Gandaki. Further along the path cross another bridge (3 hours) back to the right bank of the Kali Gandaki.

The village of Dana (3 hours 15 minutes) became a customs post following the establishment of the Nepalese state in 1786. Until the 1930s the government taxed the salt trade which passed through here on its way south to Nepal from Tibet. The Miristi Khola joins the Kali Gandaki from the north here. The Miristi Khola flows from the valley north of Annapurna I in which the original 1950 French Annapurna Base Camp was located. The site in the Annapurna Sanctuary now popularly known as Annapurna Base Camp is the site of the 1970 British Expedition base camp.

Tatopani (4 hours 30 minutes) is the resort village of the Annapurna Circuit. Hot springs, good food, shops, even book shops make it a recommended village for a rest day. There are several good lodges here. The Namaste Lodge, Dhauligiri Lodge and the Trekker's Lodge have easy access to the hot springs. English Trekkers may find that they can order butter chicken in the lodges' restaurants, which is almost, but not quite, the same as chicken tikka massala.

There are no mountain views from Tatopani, but there are still great views to be had further along the circuit at Ghorepani.

Copyright Ian P Johnson October 1998