Day 1 Besisahar to Bahundanda

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Day 1















5 hours


18 kilometres

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Begin the 300 kilometre Annapurna Circuit trek by walking north up Besisahar's main street. At the end of the street, you will find a flight of stone steps leading down to the right. Descend by these steps to the stream below and cross it to reach the bank of the Marsyandi river.

Follow the path, passing the Danish technical school on your right. Cross a wooden bridge over a stream.

At the Khudi Khola you may cross either of two suspension bridges to reach the village of Khudi. The older and more exciting bridge leads directly into the village of Khudi. The new bridge remains unused except by trekkers of a nervous disposition. Turn right through Khudi.

At Bhule Bhule, cross the large well made suspension bridge onto the right bank of the Marsyandi River and then turn left, to continue north east up the valley.

Do not forget to visit the ACAP post at Bhule Bhule to sign in. You can buy your ACAP permit here for 1,000 Rupees. The ACAP posts are also for your benefit. Should something happen to you, the ACAP records of trekkers at least helps to narrow the search area.

The path leads through rice fields down to the very bank of the Marsyandi river. At a fork take the left path, not the steep stone steps on the right. Pass through Ngadi [28°18.29'N 84°24.21'E]. Just north of Ngadi cross a suspension bridge. Soon in the distance you will see a hill with the village of Bahundanda in the col to the left. Ngadi is a Nyeshang village founded by the people of Manang.

Continue through the rice fields, gradually ascending until the path becomes a lot steeper at the hill. The col and village are at the top of the steep climb.

The Hindu Brahmin village of Bahundanda contains of good example of the economic effects of lodge recommendations by guidebooks. One hotel has a large notice board advertising that it is recommended by a certain well known guide book. This lodge has expanded recently. This lodge is no better than the other excellent lodges in Bahundanda. Making a long term recommendation based upon one person's opinion on one date is surely unfair. It is particularly unfair if the guidebook writer did not also stay at the other lodges as well, to make a fair comparison. A recommendation such as this places an unjustified long term capital advantage into one lucky owner's hands. It discourages other lodge owners from investing and is naturally resented by them. This guidebook will not make lodge recommendations (well, only one!) believing that each trekker is able to choose his or her own accommodation.

Updated 16 Dec 1999

Copyright Ian P Johnson October 1998