Day 0 - Kathmandu to Besisahar

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Day 1

Or How to get from Kathmandu to the start of the Annapurna Circuit

You will need an ACAP permit (Annapurna Conservation Area Project) for Rupees 2,000 which is available from the ACAP office in Tridevi Marg, Thamel. (Near Fire and Ice Pizza)

To get to Besisahar requires 2 bus journeys, changing at Dumre. First, buy a bus ticket to Pokhara from any hotel or travel agency in Kathmandu. You should buy a ticket on a 'Swiss' bus ('Swiss' = tourist) for rupees 200 (1997 prices).

At 6am on the morning of your departure, your bus will be waiting, along with many others all going to the same place, outside the British Council and Library on Kanti Path. Your ticket will give you your bus number. At about midday your bus should arrive at Dumre, about halfway to Pokhara.

Change buses at Dumre. You will have to buy another ticket on a local Tata bus to Besisahar. Buy your own ticket on the bus. Do not accept more expensive local offers of transport in Landrovers or Toyota Landcruisers as these vehicles do not have the suspension, power, safety or quality of drivers needed for the trip. Only a Tata bus can be expected to make the journey safely. It is a long uncomfortable trip, although there are recent reports (May 1999) of the road being much improved with new bridges being built. People have been known to get out and walk, despite that fact that it is two days walk.

As an alternative, I have recently (May 1999) learned that it is now possible to catch an express local bus directly to Besisahar for 210 Rupees. It arrives at 2pm.

At Besisahar there is plenty of hotel accommodation. This is also a good place to hire a porter guide. Many based here can speak grammatically good English due to the long establishment of many schools here. To obtain a porter guide, ask your hotel landlord. The difference between a porter, a porter guide and a guide is explained in the FAQ. If you have this guidebook and a map and you have a tongue in your head, you do not need a guide.

If you get to Besisahar early, you might like to shorten your journey the next day by taking the Day 1 path to Khudi. It's a great place to stay.