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Bibbulmun Track


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Introduction to The Bibbulmun Track

The Bibbulmun Track is a long distance walking track that takes you through some of the most beautiful areas of south-west Western Australia. Its 963 kilometres stretch from Kalamunda, just outside Perth, to Albany in the south, and passes through 8 country towns where bush walkers may rest and buy supplies. Those who walk the full length are known as 'end to enders'.

Walkers are guided by triangular waugals - or rainbow serpents. If you've walked more than a kilometre without seeing a waugal, you're going the wrong way! Campsites are provided along the way, and all follow a similar design. Each site has a three-sided hut, a 5,000 litre water tank and basic toilet facilities. The huts are a welcome sight at the end of each day's walk on the Bibbulmun Track.

The great advantage of long distance trekking or bushwalking in Australia is its comparative safety due to its remoteness from the political hotspots of the world. Although lacking the great scenery of the Himalayas, Australia has some of the most amazing flowering plants, birds and animals in the world. You will not be disappointed.

There is a summary of each day on the Bibbulmun Track below, and more details can be found by following the links for each day. Have a great journey.


1  Kalamunda to Ball Creek20.9 km   

Kalamunda National Park with its wildflowers and the Mundaring Weir are the main highlights of today's walk. The first 3 kilometres descends down to the Piesse Brook, and is fairly rocky underfoot. It's a steady climb for the next 4 kilometres then a fairly easy 7 kilometres down to the Mundaring Weir. From there it's another steady climb to the Ball Creek Campsite.


2  Ball Creek to Waalegh18.1 km   

Today's section of the Bibbulmun Track is very undulating. Terrain is like a roller-coaster, lots of ups and downs. The bush is diverse with wandoo woodlands, slabs of granite and jarrah and marri trees.


3  Waalegh to Mount Dale20 km   

First 8.5 kilometres of the Bibbulmun Track to Beraking Campsite is relatively level with many valley views to enjoy. Next 11.4 kilometres to Mount Dale is more challenging, however, with many wonderful sights to behold.


4  Mount Dale to Canning19.4 km   

This section of the Bibbulmun Track is level with the exception of 3 or 4 kilometres around Abyssinia Rock. The Bibbulmun Track is swampy in places here, with paperbark trees and banksia trees coming into the picture. Canning Campsite is situated beside a small creek.


5  Canning to Monadnocks15.6 km   

First half of this section of the Bibbulmun Track is easy walking through virgin jarrah forest, skirting around a nearby creek. The final 8 kilometres, however, from the Canning River, is predominantly uphill through jarrah and sheoak forest. Tall slender blackboy plants and good views are a feature of today's walk.


6  Monadnocks to Bush Stop20 km   

There are two challenging mountain peaks within the first 5 kilometres. A steep descent of two kilometres to Sullivan Rock. Mount Cooke and Nerang Campsites have now been repaired since the fires of April 2003.


7  Bushstop to Gringer Creek22  km   

The terrain from Nerang to Gringer Creek is relatively flat with the track following a broad creek system in mixed jarrah, marri and wandoo woodland. The crossing of Serpentine River, wildflowers and red-tailed black cockatoos is a feature of today's walk on the Bibbulmun Track.


8  Gringer Creek to White Horse Hills17.6 km   

Two challenging ascents today on the Bibbulmun Track, over Boonering and Kimberling Hills. Between these hills, which are 8 kilometres apart, is a permanent waterhole named Boonerang Spring. The Bibbulmun Track passes many large granite boulders and wandoo forest.


9  White Horse Hill to Mount Wells14.5 km   

Today on the Bibbulmun Track is an easy walk as 10 kilometres is part of a broad flat valley. The old Hume Tank Logging Camp is perfectly situated for a lunch break at the half way mark. Final 2 kilometres is a short, steep climb up to the lovely summit of Mont Wells. The 360 degree views are awesome.


10  Mount Wells to Chadoora14.8 km   

A 4 kilometre descent down Mount Wells is a perfect start to a day on the Bibbulmun Track. The activity from a nearby goldmine is audible. There is evidence of an old telegraph line. From the foot of Mount Wells to Chadoora is a flat 11 kilometre walk which makes 'double hutting' on to Dwellingup a possibility. Signs of old timbermill homes are visible near Chadoora.


11  Chadoora to Dwellingup19.4 km   

This section of the Bibbulmun Track is flat with a lovely winding walk through jarah forest. History abounds as you pass through the once busy settlements of Inglehope and Holyoake. The last half of this walk follows a rail line used on occasions by the Hotham Valley Tourist Railway.


12   Rest day at Dwellingup

Most facilities are available in town, except Internet cafe for email. Recommend chalets at the caravan park for hikers.


13  Dwellingup to Swamp Oak13.1 km   

Follow the waugals south through the town past the primary school to get back on the Bibbulmun Track. It's a short undulating walk, which is ideal after a rest day. Pine plantations and valley views evident as well as attractive jarrah and marri forest. A pleasant and stimulating walk with Swamp Oak Hut situated in an ideal "location, location".


14  Swamp Oak to Murray18.6 km   

The first 10 kilometres are the hardest part of this section of the Bibbulmun Track, with Yarragil Brook a recommended spot for a rest. A long level section tracing the rim of the Murray Valley precedes the steep descent towards the Murray River. The track parallels the river for the final 1.5 kilometres. Murray Campsite overlooks a pool in the River Murray.


15  Murray to Dookanelly17.8 km   

This section of the Bibbulmun Track follows the River Murray for most of the day, and the lush fertile vegetation makes you feel like you're in a jungle. Some areas are very slippery, so care is needed. Mainly level terrain apart from the first and last 3.5 kilometres.


16  Dookanelly to Possum Springs19.3 km   

A very hilly and challenging day's walk. The worst day on the Bibbulmun Track you could choose to get lost on (yours truly did). The first 2 kilometres are the only really level section, which is the calm before the storm. The long gully Bridge across the Murray River is a feature and an ideal lunch stop. The Worsley Alumina Conveyor is evident and the hum from it will be audible for the next day or so. Possum Springs is situated on a slope above a creek.


17  Possum Springs to Harris Dam32.3 km   

The stretch of the Bibbulmun Track from Possum Spring to Harris Dam is very long, but flat, which is why you can "double hut" it. There is much diversity of scenery to enjoy with swampy sections where there are paperbark trees, gum trees, and swamp vegetation, and in the drier areas there is jarrah forest, and many wildflowers including orchids. Yourdamung Campsite is 19 kilometres from Possum Springs if you do not want to 'double hut'.


18  Harris Dam to Collie21.5 km   

A leisurely 3.5 kilometres and you arrive at Harris Dam on Lake Ballingall, which is worth pausing at. Perrin Lookout is worth a detour (500 metres) to view the spectacular lake. Relatively level walk through state forest with a few roads to cross over.


19   Rest day at Collie

All the facilities you need are available in this large town. Internet is available at the Caravan Park and the library.


20   Rest day at Collie
21  Collie to Yabberup19.6 km   

Take the 2.7 kilometre spur trail west of Collie to arrive back on the Bibbulmun Track. Head south towards the Collie River and the Mungallup Dam (10.5 kilometres). The walk through the state forest is mildly undulating with no serious hills to climb. No swimming is permitted in the Mungallup Dam.


22  Yabberup to Noggerup17.7 km   

After 6 kilometres of easy walking, you skirt then cross the lovely Glen Mervyn Dam. The Mumballup Tavern is a "must visit" for lunch and a beer at the 12 kilometre mark. Steep climb from the pub through private property offers magnificent pastoral views. Say "hi" to the many sheep and cows along the way. Beautiful wildflowers in spring!


23  Noggerup to Grimwade21.9 km   

After about 10 kilometres you hit virgin jarrah forest, which is about as good as it gets these days. Pleasant walk along the Bibbulmun Track with the last 6 kilometres after Preston Road a bit of a slog through to Grimwade. Peaceful campsite perched near a creek with many varieties of birds to sing along with.


24  Grimwade to Balingup22.4 km   

Cross over three roads in the first 7 kilometres, then follow a creek for while soon after. Very steep descent down to the Balingup Brook Bridge (18 kilometres) then a lovely flat 4 kilometres into the very picturesque town of Balingup. Attractive streams and valleys.


25   Rest day at Balingup

Small town with limited food supplies. OK, if like me, you are not too fussy about what to eat. Internet at post office, and in the backpacker hostel at the rear of the post office.


26  Balingup to Blackwood16.7 km   

A couple of kilometres out of town the Bibbulmun Track passes through the Golden Valley Tree Park. Many tree specimens planted including huge oak trees. Many rolling hills today with a humungous hill climb 2.5 kilometres from Blackwood Campsite. The hut is near pine plantations with spectacular views from the summit.


27  Blackwood to Gregory Brook18 km   

The first kilometre of today's section of the Bibbulmun Track is a challenging descent down "Cardiac Hill". The track follows the Blackwood River Valley with a few bridges and creek crossings. Hilly terrain near the Millstream Dam. The forest is more dense and damp, with plenty of soap bush, snotty gobbles, tassel brush and tree hovea.


28  Gregory Brook to Donnelly River20.6 km   

Small elevation from Gregory Brook, then mainly level terrain after the Brockman highway crossing. The forest transition from jarrah and yarri trees to karri forest is evident in this section. Remains of the old logging rail formations and Willow Springs Mill site add a bit of history and interest along the way, Donnelly River itself being a timber mill town up until 1978.


29   Rest day at Donnelly River

Just a general store for supplies, no Internet available. There are plenty of places to sleep. I chose the old primary school, which has rooms for $12 per night.


30  Donnelly River to Tom Road15.9 km   

Leave Donnelly River south through jarrah forest, returning to karri forest again around Manjimup Brook, (5.5 kilometres). Delightful walk which has the Donnelly River as a close companion after you hit the twin bridges. The river is with you for the next 50 kilometres, lovely karri forest, rapids and valleys to enjoy. No major hill climbs.


31  Tom Road to Boardinghouse22.9 km   

Level terrain again today for most of the way. Many pleasant pools and rapids to cool off in. Left at the bitumen road you cross over, Graphite Road, is a cafe that is well worth a visit. Great lunch spot. Go on treat yourself!

Old Chapel's Bridge has an old shelter used mainly by vehicle campers. (21.6 km). Cross bridge, consisting of a large karri tree to Boarding House campsite. This site features nearby river, karri forest and early morning birdsong.


32  Boardinghouse to Beavis Campsite19.1 km   

Challenging section of the Bibbulmun Track, in particular the last half of the day's walk. River comes and goes as track winds its way south, very steep in places. Few obstacles like fallen trees to go around or over, fascinating places. A change in vegetation occurs near Beavis Campsite. Swamp banksia, river cedar and peppermint trees make this section a favourite for many people.


33  Beavis to Beedelup19.4 km   

Today you farewell the Donnelly River as you soon take the final climb out of the Donnelly River Valley. Carey Brook, however is worth lingering at (13 kilometres) and if that's not enough, the detour to the Karri Valley Resort is very tempting. Beedelup Falls is also a spectacular feature along with the suspension bridge (18.1 kilometres). Couldn't wish for a better day.


34  Beedelup to Pemberton23.7 km   

Very shady pleasant walk with views of farmland in places. Long flat walking with the section near the Big Brook Dam a treat. The final 5 kilometres into Pemberton joins the Rainbow Trail (tourist drive), that skirts the Lefroy Brook. Idyllic, damned swimming pool as you enter Pemberton is a "must swim" after a big day!


35   Rest day at Pemberton

Pemberton caters for all your wants and needs. A picturesque timber town with some neat cottages.


36  Pemberton to Warren20.7 km   

Follow the waugals out of town, and in just 3 kilometres you arrive at the famous Gloucester Tree (old fire lookout). 360 degree views from the top for those brave enough to climb. Slight detour to cascades (8.3 kilometres) is also worthwhile, a popular picnic spot. Last 12 kilometres is pleasant hiking through more karri forest along the Warri River.


37  Warren to Schaffer21.1 km   

Continuing along the Warren River, you soon cross the unique River Road Bridge. Rocky, rugged gullies and ridges come into play with excellent views. At Moon's Crossing (10.7 kilometres) you leave the river as you pass private property and numerous farms. Schafer Campsite overlooks a large dam which has a roped off area for swimming. Fairly easy walk, should have calves of steel by now.


38  Schaffer to Northcliffe14 km   

Quiet rural roads are a feature of today, with expansive views of attractive farmland. At 10.2 kilometres, Gardner River you will find lined with karri and marri trees, with a sturdy footbridge to cross. Northcliffe is a small town rich in history.


39  Northcliffe to Gardner15.1 km   

To be blunt, the next 106 kilometres from Northcliffe to Mandalay Beach is as flat as Kate Hudson's breasts. Today's walk along the Bibbulmun Track hugs the Gardener River as the track starts to become sandy underfoot. Very diverse walk as you go from karri forest to wilderness plains and back to karri forest again. Two bridge crossings both exceeding 20 metres.


40  Gardner to Lake Maringup15.9 km   

Much variety in vegetation today. Low swampy areas that require wading through add to the challenge. Bite the bullet and plough through boots and all is my advice. Lake Maringup campsite is situated amongst the karri trees overlooking Lake Maringup of course. The lake is one of the largest freshwater lakes in the south west. The main landmark today is the crossing of Chesapeake Road at the approximate half way mark.


41  Lake Maringup to Dog Pool24.5 km   

Many long swampy sections on this flat hike within D'Entrecastaux and Shannon National Parks. Do not wade in bare feet, and unclip your rucksack waist belts in water above knee high. If you do not like wading, then avoid this section between the months of July to November. Dog Pool Campsite is on the banks of the Shannon River.


42  Dog Pool to Mount Chance19.4 km   

No fires allowed from here to Albany. Nice easy walk in spite of the distance. Reedy swamps and prolific wildflowers add character to the rugged Pingerup Plains. Mixture of jarrah and karri trees at various places. Be sure to climb to the top of Mount chance for the inspirational views.


43  Mount Chance to Woolbales - Mandalay Beach31.3 km   

The 20 kilometers to Woolbales consists of more bush, scrub, and wading in swamps. After Woolbales there are sections of large granite slabs with peppermint and banksias scrub offering diversity. Some hilly dunes to climb as you glimpse the ocean at long last. Long boardwalk down to nearby Mandalay Beach makes walking easier, some historical points of interest along the way.


44  Mandalay Beach to Mount Clare and Walpole.28.5 km   

Only an idiot like me would attempt this stretch in one day. Very strenuous walk through sand dunes leaving Mandalay Beach and undulating to the Long Point Campsite. (6.5 kilometres) From there to Mount Clare transition from coastal dunes - tall karri forest - tingle trees at Mount Clare. Climb up to Mount Clare was in a word "Torture". Last 10 kilometres into Walpole, however, is most pleasant.


45   Rest day at Walpole

Walpole is a medium sized town with daily Westrail bus service.


46  Walpole to Franklin River17.5 km   

First 5 kilometres follows foreshore trail around the inlet. On crossing the Southwest Highway, you ascent through karri and tingle forest. Nice views over inlet to the ocean at the Hilltop Lookout (7.2 kilometres), followed by the massive stump of a large tingle tree. Summit of Douglas Hill (11.7 kilometres) is followed by descent towards the Franklin River Campsite on the banks of the river.


47  Franklin River to Giants to Rame Head29.3 km   

Easy 13.7 kilometres walk through to Giants Campsite, however, at 12 kilometres, you pass the entrance to the popular Treetop Walk. Allow time to explore and enjoy the sights. 15.6 kilometres to Rame Head is diverse, again taking you from tall forest to the rugged coast of Conspicuous Beach. The last two kilometres to Rame Head includes a challenging slog up sand dunes.


48  Rame Head to Peaceful Bay10.5 km   

Track descends to the coast then for most of this section you walk along rocky headlands and beaches. Beautiful coastline, with great views from Castle Rock (7.3 kilometres). Many 4WD tracks today, so keep a keen eye out for the waugals! Peaceful Bay lives up to its name with a population of 60 for most of the year. Limited facilities.


49  Peaceful Bay to Boat Harbour22.7 km   

After 4 or 5 kilometres of coastal walking, you head inland for the crossing of the Lewin Inlet. This is done using the canoes you will find available in a shed.

Many short, steep dunes to climb makes for a very challenging 23 kilometres. Area around Quarram Nature Reserve is both unique and interesting. The remainder of today's walk is rugged coastline.


50  Boat Harbour to William Bay19.9 km   

11 kilometres from Boat Harbour Campsite to Parry Inlet camping grounds are fairly sandy and undulating. From there it's a 7 kilometre beach walk (slog), around Mazolleti Beach! Depending upon the time of year, you may even need to wade across Parry Inlet, where it meets with the ocean. Leaving the beach the last 2 kilometres to William Bay, it is all uphill.


51  William Bay to Denmark21 km   

Descend from William Bay some 4.5 kilometres to Light's Beach. Soon after the track veers north towards Mount Hallowell, which is a long arduous climb up and over. Magnificent views, however, make it worthwhile as you descend towards Ocean Beach Road. Pass through a small suburb to the old ferry service station, then a 6 kilometre stroll around the Wilson Inlet to Denmark. Denmark is a wonderful place to live, shame I'm only passing through.


52   Rest day at Denmark.

All the facilities of a large town. Graham at the Blue Wren can drive you around to pick up the Bibbulmun Track again for $20.


53   Rest day at Denmark.

I came, I saw, I ate!


54  Denmark to Nuilaki and on to West Cape Howe25.5 km   

After making your way to Pelican Point by car or boat, it's a flat 9 kilometre stroll skirting the bay to Nullaki, also known as "Mozzaki" if the mossies are biting. The extra 16.5 kilometres to West Cape Howe is worth it to get away from them. Great coastal hiking, not too hilly, however, no shade or shelter from the sun. Some brilliant sights again today!


55  West Cape Howe to Torbay16.4 km   

More coastal walking today in an area popular for rock climbing. Panoramic views from the Bruce Tarbotton Memorial Walk (10.1 kilometres), then a boot cleaning station at 12.2 kilometres. Shelley Beach and Dingo Beach are the only spots you can swim today due to steep cliffs. Torbay Campsite has a lookout about 50 kilometres south of the hut.


56  Torbay to Cosey Corner2.4 km   

If you can walk past this place without stopping to soak it in, you are in too much of a rush. This was my best day on the Bibbulmun Track


57  Cosey Corner to Hidden Valley14.6 km   

Began today's hike on the Bibbulmun Track with a 7 kilometre beach walk which includes some wading at the mouth of Torbay Inlet (3.5 kilometres). Ascend up to the Mutton Bird Car Park to enjoy the view as you momentarily leave the coast for around 3 kilometres. The last 3 kilometres is coastal - roller coastal!


58  Hidden Valley to Albany19.8 km   

From Hidden Valley you can see and just about taste the spoils of Albany! The Bibbulmun Track continues to weave in and out along the coast passing near huge windmill generators. If you're lucky you may see dolphins, or even whales between the months of July and October. The Bibbulmun Track leaves the coast and heads north towards Albany after about 8 kilometres. A gradual ascent towards Little Grove, a long walk around Frenchman's Bay and your mission is complete.



© Michael Bradley 2004