Take it easy on the homerun. Following the Arun, finish the trek on relatively easy trails, or if you'd rather continue further downstream towards Hille. There should be plenty of time later for a swim in a side stream.

Despite the relatively short trek down-valley to Tumlingtar, again you might benefit from an early start. The heat builds quickly once the sun gets up and the morning mists make this the most pleasant part of the day - so get the walking done early and the remainder can be given over to snoozing and perhaps a swim.

The trail wanders alongside the Arun through the steaming jungle, sometimes diverting across sandy beaches. The may also be a higher route along the river used during monsoonal periods. Being a main arterial route for the region, the trail can at times be crowded with porters, but more often will be largely deserted of traffic. Perhaps to avoid the heat of the day, porters here are sometimes known for walking during the night aided by lanterns hung from their doko. Watch for monkeys in the surrounding jungle.

Another ethnic group, the Limbu, largely inhabits the areas east of the Arun. As with another of Nepal's major rivers, the Kali Gandaki, the Arun cuts directly through the Himalayan chain itself, draining parts of the eastern Tibetan plateau - a rare geographical phenomenon emphasising that these two mighty rivers pre-date the young Himalayas.

The river can be quite turbulent at times and has been known to claim the occasional dugout long boats ferrying passengers between shores. If you yearn for a dip you might be better off avoiding the strong currents that occur at some points on the Arun, by choosing a quieter spot in a side stream. Numerous tea stalls serve Nepali tea and dal bhat. Along the Arun there is a possibility of getting some more exotic fruit such as papaya or pineapple.

Kumalgaon sits on a wide plateau just above the river. As there is little shade on trail beware of the oppressiveness of the sun - the heat after mid morning very draining so perhaps stop for another ciya here. After several kilometres across the flat plateau you will reach Tumlingtar (487m) itself, where there are at least five hotels that claim to be of a reasonable tourist standard however mostly cater to locals. There is electricity, beer fridges and even a phone here. Unfortunately, most of the hotels have little desirable atmosphere. The airstrip is a paddock at the southern end of the town and some of the larger hotels in Tumlingtar, double as flight ticketers. Take-off and landings here can be bumpy. The village has traditionally been a centre for potters of the Kumal (or Kuhmale) caste, but nowadays army and other officials make for a wider mix of ethnicity. The surrounding plantations are general of rice and corn

If you arrive early in the day you may well be able to get a seat on a flight the same day. Flights schedules seem to vary depending on the time of year and local politics - anything from several flights per day to several fights per week. From Tumlingtar, the 45-minute flight to Kathmandu usually routes south to clear the larger ridges and afternoon cloud, before heading west over more barren middle-hill countryside towards the capital. Expect a little culture shock on account of a sudden return to the horns and exhaust fumes of Thamel - You'll soon be wishing you'd stayed in the peace and quiet of the Arun a little longer. There are also regular flights south to the city of Biratnagar.

Despite any delay waiting for a flight out, it may well be worth spending a night here for some good morning views north to Chamlang and Makalu. In the event that you find yourself with a spare day or two in Tumlingtar and don't mind the heat, try a day walk southeast out to Chainpur, famous for its brass work, or perhaps to the district headquarters of Khandbari sitting high a ridge to the north.

South of Tumlingtar the trail heads through some Lumbu villages and it will take a further two or three days to reach the road head on mostly easy trails with another final hill climb to reach Hille (1850m). Here's where this guide stops - Most other descriptions for the route list semi-regular lodge facilities between Tumlingtar and Hille (I will update as possible) . There are at least four hotels in Hille itself but the motorable road, slowly being extended by the army currently finishes just north of Hille at Pakribas. Expect to be on the bus for at least 18-20 hours [Editor's note - ohmigod] to reach Kathmandu via Dharan and Dhankuta.