Today's walk is relatively short but not easy, surmounting Satu La, the first of three passes on the trek and crossing the Inukhu valley. Basically this means a big decent followed by the inevitable ascent. There are a couple of trail options but it is recommended that you finish the day in the small hamlet of Najingdingma just below the second pass, Surkie La.

Waking up in Pangum you have stunning views of Numbur and Katang to the northwest. These peaks are sacred to the Gurung peoples living in the areas to their south.

From the village climb a little further to Pangum La (3173m), also known as Satu La, hopefully for some great views in all directions. From here, on a good day you can begin to appreciate the nature of the country you will be crossing in the coming days. To the north is Mera peak at the head of the Hinku valley. Passing a small chorten at the pass, make an easy traverse along the ridge until reaching Basme (2700m), also known as Shibuche or Chatuk after about an hour. The trail diverts downwards through the village where there is a basic lodge and a small shop. The trail continues down a ridge but is soon weaving almost vertically all the way down to the river far below. Watch your footing - there will be a fair amount of grabbing at tree roots at times as you lever yourself down the hillside.

From Basme there is a second less obvious trail that descends into the valley further to the north. This alternate trail then climbs the east side of the valley to the Sherpa village of Chereme. Make sure you are on the correct trail. It is usually possible to stay in Chereme, but it is the people of this village that operate the lodges in the relatively new Najingdingma settlement on the main route. Cherem is a little out of the way but there is a gompa there it may be worth as an alternative. If it is not possible to stay, it would be easy to continue on to Boksom or double back over Surkie La to Najingdingma (see your map).

In about 11/2 hours reach the bridge at the base of the valley for a good spot for lunch or a snack. There doesn't seem to be any safe way of getting down to the river itself but here the Inukhu, also known as the Hinku Khola looks particularly treacherous. Take care on the edge of the drop to the river. The swing bridge (1850m) is a rather patched affair, with rocks covering the larger gaps between planks and tree branches, sometimes giving horrifying glimpses of the torrent far below. The bridge was originally built by the Hillary trust in 1971 and later replaced with a more modern version in the mid '90's - It may be due for another effort shortly. A vandalised sign announces that you are now entering the Makalu/Barun National Park. From the bridge, the trail turns to the right for a short distance and as expected climbs sharply past a yellow "Way To Tumlingtar" sign and some hamlets at Gaikharka (2300m). There is currently nowhere to stay here. Look back across the valley to the trail opposite descending almost vertically into the valley.

Gaikharka literally means cow pasture, and Rai and Gurung peoples from further down the valley occupy the pastoral farms and bring stock to graze here seasonally. The slow creep of Rai farmers up valley is a reminder of the intense land pressures in the middle hills of Nepal. Luckily the Rai and Sherpa who inhabit these hills generally prefer to occupy different altitude bands for their agricultural activities. As always pass to the left of the chorten on the trail here.

Continue climbing the Surkie Danda ridge through some beautiful open forest, crossing the occasional stream. After perhaps 3 hours of climbing, the trail eventually enters a large clearing, climb a little higher again to the small hamlet of Najingdingma(2650m). There are two basic but welcoming little lodges here. Pasang Anje Sherpa and her mother make good hosts at the Namaste Hotel - the bamboo thatched sleeping quarters at the Namaste make for an interesting stay.