Start the Arun Valley Trek by leaving the popular Everest tourist trail and contour above the Dudh Kosi valley through country that sees little tourist traffic to Pangum. At times the terrain can be frustrating, with the trail diverting into side valleys and being far from a direct line to Pangum, however it is interesting country to trek.

From Puiyan (2770m) there a few ways to get through the day to reach Pangum. I suggest taking a high route, leaving the tourist highway a few hundred meters past the last lodge. Look for the scar of an old landslide a few hundred yards south of the village, and then look for a rough trail heading up the landslide and to the right. This upper trail becomes more formed as it climbs around a spur and gradually higher above the main route in the Dudh Kosi valley below. Looking back in the direction of Khumbu you should be able to see Cho Oyu on the Tibetan border. Climbing higher still, look for a large moss covered boulder covered in mani inscriptions. Passing the odd house here and there, the trail winds in and out of gullies as it contours across the terrain.

There is plenty to make this high route interesting and you will be rewarded by some great views and a less populated landscape. Any locals you do meet will probably be glad of a little conversation. Because of the nature terrain it will be a lot further to Pangum than it may appear on a map, with no 'straight and flat' all day. There certainly seems to be a lot of wasted walking ducking in and out of gullies and crossing several streams.

For an alternative way of getting to Pangum continue on the main trail until you reach junction in the forest just before the big downhill to Bupsa. Take a side trail heading uphill for Kharte, then climb on, passing the Gauri Shankar hotel and finally joining the high trail mentioned above. Otherwise stay on the main trail as far a Khari Khola then head west up the Khari Valley towards Pangum passing a gompa along the way. Despite appearances, I suspect the high trail up the landslide from Puiyan is the shorter, easier and most interesting route overall. If approaching from Jiri, either leave the main trail at Khari Khola or use the trail above Bupsa (locals recommend the latter option). Both Sherpa and Rai inhabit the settlement of Khari Khola at the base of this heavily terraced valley.

Towards the top of the Khari Khola valley bear left to reach Pangum (2850m) also known as Pangkongma or Pangum Gompa (although the correct pronounciation is something between these). There are some interesting mani walls just below this Sherpa settlement. There are several lodges in the village as well as a gompa and a paper factory. There is also a small hydroelectric project nearby which might be worth a visit.