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  Day 1 Kathmandu and Khumbu to Puiyan via Lukla

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Time (excluding rests)

4.5 hours

Distance

kilometres

Either fly into Lukla or continue on with your trek from Khumbu. I suggest you make this an easy day, finishing at Puiyan(Paiya). From Lukla it's reasonably easy to make Puiyan with a few hours. If you'd rather carry on, you might bypass some of the route described and stay on the main trail to Bupsa or Khari Khola.


It is unfortunate that with an increased army presence in recent years, Lukla village has become busier, crowded and dirtier - not to mention the machine gun posts, trench positions and razor wire. It is possible that a curfew may be in force in Lukla village so don't wander around or attempt to arrive in Lukla after dark. If you are continuing a Khumbu trek then it's much better to avoid Lukla altogether by taking the lower more scenic route through Chaunrikharka(2650m). From Khumbu, take the right hand path at a junction in the village of Chablung(2700m) to get off the trail that continues gently climbing to Lukla. The Chaunrikharka is the original route pre-dating construction of the airstrip and subsequent growth at Lukla.

If you've just stepped safely off a twin otter from Kathmandu, it can be pleasant to take a moment to take in the crisp mountain air and appreciate the views. Find your legs and explore Lukla picking up any last minute supplies. A sign in the main street directs trekkers through some back streets towards the Jiri trail. Otherwise take the rubbish-strewn path past several lodges down the village side of the airstrip, passing a large rock before rapidly dropping into a deep gully. If in any doubt, just ask for the way to Jiri. Alternatively, if you have plenty of time head northward from Lukla before joining the Jiri trail at Chablung - you might have to ask - then double-back on the lower route through Chaunrikharka as suggested above.

Below Lukla the trail drops joins the path from Chaunrikharka and climbs, sometimes steeply through the village of Surkhe to regain most of the elevation lost crossing the spur known as Paiya La. The trail approaches Puiyan, sitting at the apex of the large hanging valley above the Dudh Kosi. Puiyan and indeed most of the area below Lukla are currently under Maoist influence.



© Richard Beatson 2004

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