Day 5 Tharapeti to Laurebina Phedi
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Day 5 Tharapeti to Laurebina Phedi |
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Pass below a giant boulder...
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There are two possible routes from Tharapeti to the Laurebina Pass. This description is of the lower route that passes through Gophte and Laurebina Phedi. (The alternative upper route follows the crest of the ridge directly to the Sudi Yek Kunta Phedi Lodge.) Descend to the lower lodges of Tharapeti. Following a descending path along a compass bearing of 10 degrees past a row of ruined houses. Continue down past ancient glacial moraines. Cross through a boulder field by the excellent path. Descend steeply (35 minutes) to 3,300 metres. It looks like the wrong way at first, but trust the path, it soon levels out and finally turns west. Pass a huge tree stump (50 minutes). The area must once have been filled with giant old growth trees like this one. Pass an abandoned tea house (55 minutes), from where you can see Gophte, then descend still further. You start to get the feeling that you are on the wrong path, but keep going. Soon the path turns back uphill through the forest. Cross a stream (1 hour 10 minutes) and pass below a giant boulder next to the stream. Pass a cave. There are many beautiful flowers around here, including many examples of Primula Wollestani, which was named on the 1927 Everest expedition. Arrive at Ghopte (1 hour 25 minutes) where there are two lodges:
Walk through the forest down then up to a shack on the skyline (1 hour 55 minutes), Pass under a cliff (2 hours 10 minutes) then cross a stream bed. (dry in October 1999). Arrive at the Xholmo Norchho Lodge. (2 hours 20 minutes) [28°02.52’N 85°28.50’E 3,625 metres]. The lodge is seasonal and was not operating when I passed through here. It’s very primitive, but could provide shelter, if needed. Descend, yet again, to a boulder and stream at 3,400 metres (2 hours 35 minutes). A few minutes further on is a large stream (2 hours 45 minutes) that is perfect for a bath. If you’ve trekked four and a half days without a bath, now’s your chance. Continue along the path, now, if you had a bath, somewhat cleaner and more fragrant. The path turns uphill again (2 hours 55 minutes). Pass a hut that may also operate as a lodge in season. (3 hours 10 minutes) [28°02.99’N 85°28.22’E 3,500 metres]. The accommodation is just benches with grass mattresses. |
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Cross two streams by little bamboo bridges (3 hours 25 minutes). The path drops steeply for a short way to a waterfall (3 hours 50 minutes) Cross a stream below a waterfall (4 hours). Cross a large stream and climb steeply uphill for a short distance to arrive at Laurebina Phedi (4 hours 20 minutes). There are two lodges here, the upper one, which has a better view, cannot be seen from the first lodge. The first lodge has the longest lodge name in Nepal: Lodge Nana Surche Kunda Phedi Taj Mell Riverside Lodge This lodge lies in the back of a deep stream gully. The lodge is well organised and very friendly. I was offered some fresh traditional yaks’ cheese, which tasted like, and had the same texture as, Lancashire cheese from the UK. On 31st July 1992 a Thai Airbus A-300-310 crashed about 20 minutes walk downhill from here. All 113 people on board died, including three instructors who led a course I attended at the UK’s Plas Y Brenin mountaineering school. Before the 1992 accident, Thai had an exemplary safety record. The crash was the first by Thai Air in 15 years and was the result of pilot error. Both the lodges have pieces of the plane as gruesome momentoes of the crash. The Riverside Lodge has a piece of engine, the Hotel Dawa Bebi has a large piece of the tail. It is part of Buddhist tradition to be reminded daily of the shortness of life. 
The Riverside Lodge at Laurebina Phedi. The excellent kitchen is on the right. Last updated May 2000 - copyright Ian Johnson |
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