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Day 8 Nuntala to Khari Khola |
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The stream just before the bridge is a great place for a bath
Cross the huge suspension bridge
Jubhing Village
There's even a Jubhing tailor...
And in his spare time he grows cabbages for trekkers' lunches
Kharia Khola is a relaxed place - while I was there the Maoists had a huge party.
Kwangde Ri in the distance - Namche is behind this peak
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Today's trek descends to the Dudh Kosi and then finally swings north towards Namche.
Kwangde Ri from Khari Khola Leave Nuntala and its Maoist slogans behind. As I walked out, the people's army was liberating a sweet shop and giving away the Mars Bars to children. By a village tap, turn left downhill towards Namche (15 minutes) [2,000 metres]. Cross a little wooden bridge, at 1,800 metres. Pass a house. Khari Khola can be seen on a ridge in the distance. At the Phuleli Lodge (55 minutes) [1,700 metres] there are great views up the Dudh Khosi valley of:
The path now enters a cool rhododendron forest. Continue down the path through wheat fields towards the bridge over the Dudh Kosi. Just before the bridge are a couple of small tea shops. (1 hour 40 minutes). Just a little further on from here is a great opportunity for a bath in the Deku Khola. A little way off the path is a series of shallow pools. The water is warm, and this is the last opportunity for an outdoor swim. Don't try this during the monsoon season, or you'll be washed over the falls into the Dudh Kosi and get cast up on the banks of the Ganges in Calcutta. Cross the bridge over the Dudh Kosi river [27° 35.68N 86° 40.93E 1,478 metres] (1 hour 45 minutes). After all this effort, you are now at an altitude a little over 500 metres lower than Jiri. It's enough to make grown men cry.
The bridge over the Dudh Kosi Beyond the bridge, cross a landslide affected area, and then start the steep walk uphill. Pass the Bagwati Lodge and then the Green Garden Lodge (2 hours 10 minutes). Pass the Quiet View Lodge, which claims to offer bacon and eggs for breakfast. The next lodge is the Gorkhali Lodge which has a military air, and is surrounded by roses. A little further on is the village of Jubhing, the home of the Bamboo Lodge. There's even a tailor in the village. In a landslip area, cross a log bridge (3 hours 10 minutes). Pass the Quiet Lodge in the village of Choka. Continue to walk uphill. Follow the path to the skyline ridge. [27° 36.13N 86° 41.88E 1,888 metres] (3 hours 10 minutes). Turn right, just before a stream - it's sign posted. Head uphill and eastwards (135°). (Note - Do not contour along the hill on a bearing of 30°). Climb steeply upwards past potato fields to the top of the col [27° 36.21N 86° 42.19E 2,102 metres] at (3 hours 50 minutes). On the col you can find the:
You can see Khari Khola in the distance below. Another 5 minutes and you'll be there. The village has numerous lodges:
There is also a telephone and health post, although given the current situation it is doubtful if they are operating. |
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© Ian Johnson 2003 |
