Everest Trek


 Day 4 Bhandar to Sete

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27° 34.52N

86° 20.93E


27° 34.64N

86° 26.55E


2,211 metres

2,569 metres


943 metres


585 metres

Time (excluding rests)

6 hours 10 minutes


10 kilometres

The Linkhu Khola is full of fish


The Linkhu Khola with the chainlink of bridge in the foreground


The path goes between two houses, but it looks like the way to the dunny...


The vilage of Kenja does not have fish on the menu




     Today the Everest Trek descends to the Linkhu Khola River and begins the climb to the Lamjura La pass.

A prayer wall

     Take the broad path downhill through Bhandar and past the small government tea plantation, not much more than a garden really. The path turns left by some chortens and becomes a narrow path again. Cross a wooden bridge and turn left following the stream downhill. The paths around here are complex, but it's funny how often a Nepali turns up to show you the way…

     Pass a few more lodges and then the Everest Trek leaves the broad agricultural plateau and heads downhill. This is a major feature of the trek ahead - lots of uphill followed by a depressing loss of all the altitude gained. By the time you reach Gokyo, you will have walked a total of 8,900 metres uphill. The total ascent on the 25 day Everest Trek described here is nearly 12,000 metres. Make sure you eat plenty of dhal bhat along the way, unless you want to be as thin as a supermodel by the time you reach Namche.

     Cross a suspension bridge over the Bhandar Khola at 1,500 metres (1 hour 20 minutes). Pass the Indra Hotel - which is the last place for a drink for some time so be sure to stop. Turn left north east along the Linkhu Khola. Pass a chain link bridge - do not cross the bridge, but instead continue along the north western river bank by a path that passes almost unnoticed between two houses. (If you cross the bridge the uphill path takes you to Peak A - where there are no tea shops).

     The deep Linkhu Khola is full of fish and the river is surrounded by potato and wheat fields. Surely there's an opportunity here for an enterprising local to start a fish and chip shop? Follow the narrow deserted river valley along the path by the riverbank. This valley must be very susceptible to flooding judging by the lack of population and fish and chip shops.

     Cross a suspension bridge across the Linkhu Khola [27° 34.50N 86° 24.00E] (1 hour 30 minutes). On the far bank is an abandoned police building that appeared to have been burnt out by the Maoists. Pass a small tea shop (1 hour 45 minutes). Pass a stream, and then the Hinganga Post Office (2 hours 15 minutes).

     Enter Kenja [27° 35.04N 86° 24.81E 1,626 metres] (2 hours 25 minutes), a long linear village with too many lodges to count. Despite this abundant supply of accommodation and food, the demand side of the market was desperately thin. When I was there for lunch, I was the only trekker in a village that could have accommodated at least two hundred trekkers.

The Everest Trek - Kenja - nearly every building is a tourist lodge

     Slog up through the remains of the rhododendron forest. It's sad that the forest will no longer bloom in spring as more and more of it is cut down. Pass a standing stone on the left of the Everest Trek at 1,720 metres.

     Pass a tea house at 1,840 metres (3 hours 35 minutes). Continue uphill to the Hotel Sayapatri [27° 34.95N 86° 25.33E 1,910 metres] (4 hours 30 minutes). Continue uphill past the village of Chinbu at 2,100 metres and then reach the Pike Guide Restaurant and Lodge at [27° 34.61N 86° 26.00E 2,396 metres] (5 hours 35 minutes).

     Ten minutes further on Sete comes into view. Pass a small prayer wall. After 6 hours and 10 minutes enter Sete. There are three lodges here. If you can face another 1 hour and 25 minute trek, Dagchu, the next village, is a better place to stay if you are travelling independently and not too exhausted to continue.

     Sete has a stupa and a small gompa. It's a great pity that one of the lodges has built its toilet block next to the stupa.

Copyright Ian Johnson 2003

Comment by: Suzanne Delaney
Date of trek: 1991, 1992, 1993, 1997
Date of comment: 7 February 2007

The local people are Buddhist, which of course would account for the lack of "fish and chip shops" -- killing of fish being regarded as bad karma. My friend Lama Dawa told me, when I asked why there were no chickens in Thaksindhu, that Rinpoche had forbidden them, because chickens eat insects, and thus many lives are lost. Perhaps you might be a little more sensitive to the culture and/or a little less flippant, since what you have to say can influence the attitudes of your readers.

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