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Day 3 Samburdhanda to Bhandar |
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Gaurishankar peeps over the ridge on the way to Thodung
The rather silly 'false' cheese factory had only one cheese!
Gaurishankar is just visible through the trees at Thodung.
The stupas at Bhandar.
Stupa close up.
Solar stove - I wonder why we don't use these in Australia? |
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Today the Everest Trek crosses the Deorali Pass and begins the descent to the Linkhu Khola. Just 10 metres along the path from Sushila Lodge is a left turn off the main trail. This left turn leads to Thodung. Walk steeply up the path through fields. The path here is much narrower than the main trail. However, unlike the main trail, this path lies on a ridge, so you get good views. This was probably the old traditional path east. Pass an ancient resting place built of huge rocks. Gaurishankar 7.135 metres comes into view to the north after 50 minutes. Pass a house and another resting place [27° 35.92N 86° 19.12E 2,500 metres], (1 hour). Cross an abandoned road project, a little further on is a group of impressive houses. (1 hour 20 minutes). At a T-junction, turn right. The views of Gaurishankar get better and better. Continue to walk uphill to the cheese factory at Thodung. A 'false' cheese factory may be found at [27° 35.76N 86° 20.18E 2,885 metres] after about 2 hours and 35 minutes. To continue to Thodung, pass this tourist facility on its left. Walk along the path uphill, until you reach the summit of the hill at Thodung - the real cheese factory buildings are unmistakable - they are of quaint Swiss construction, quite unlike any other Nepalese building in the area. [27° 35.80N 86° 20.50E 3,112 metres] (3 hours 20 minutes). The owner has some impressive Tibetan mastiffs that are definitely not house trained. Don't get too close. The views of Gaurishankar are quite disappointing as the hill top is wooded and the views are not clear. Most trekkers reach here in late morning when the clouds are forming and obscuring what view there is. Continue downwards towards the Deorali Pass on a bearing of 205° N. Pass an old resting place for Everest Trek porters [27° 35.37N 86° 20.42E 2,974 metres] (3 hours 45 minutes). Deorali [27° 34.93N 86° 19.97E 2,732 metres] (4 hours 15 minutes) has 8 lodges and an awesome collection of mani stones that are not here just to impress the tourists. These large walls are often created to remind would-be bandits of their community's religious obligations. There are 8 lodges, including
The hotels just down from the pass have the better views. Cross a road under construction (4 hours 25 minutes). Pass the Solu Khumbu Lodge (4 hours 50 minutes). Reach the village of Bhandar after 5 hours and 15 minutes. Clustered around the gompa and two stupas are a number of lodges, including:
The inevitable small boy will no doubt provide you entrance to the gompa for a small fee. Do not forget to put a donation in the collection box in the gompa. You may also need to provide some baksheesh for the small boy. |
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Copyright Ian Johnson 2003 |
