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Day 20 Pangboche to Thugla |
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Ideal trekking...
In ideal scenery
The Lhotse Nuprse ridge
Magnificent views up the valley
There's art on the boulders
Mysterious boulder littering the karka
Ama Dablam is the dominant scenic peak
Distant view of Pheriche
Pheriche
The bridge into Pheriche
A poster of an Indian film star inside a lodge in Pheriche
The YetiZone yak is a greedy bugger
The path beyond Pheriche
The site of Thugla
Yak Lodge at Thugla |
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Today you will leave the luxury of Pangboche for the more primitive accommodation at the snout of the Khumbu Glacier.
View from Dugla - left to right - Ama Dablam, Tawoche and Jobo Laptshan Leave the village past a stream and a prayer wall. As you walk up the Khumbu Valley, you must be looking at one of the best views anywhere in the world. With magnificent views of Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse and Ama Dablam and the stream below, and the scent of conifers in the air, this is perfect trekking. Pass a small tea house (45 minutes). Continue onwards through the village of Shoare with its many lodges:
Just past the village cross a landslide. From here you can see Tengboche in the distance behind. The peak of Tawoche can be seen on the left. Enter a broad open area with stunted juniper and bilberries, which are ripe after the monsoon. Huge boulders lie strewn around from a long departed glacier. Pass a series of rocks carved with Buddhist mantras. From this area, Everest is hidden by the Nuptse - Lhotse ridge. Reach a river confluence just below an old terminal moraine by a field with a small house (1 hour 45 minutes). The path forks here - take the left hand fork (the right hand fork goes to Dingboche).
Dingboche Junction with the Nuptse Lhotse ridge in the background Cross a col with chorten and prayer flags. At this point the wide open valley and Pheriche comes into view [27° 52.98N 86° 49.12E 4,199 metres] (2 hours 15 minutes). From a distance Pheriche resembles Tal in the Annapurna region - both look like wild west towns set on an open plain. This region may have been a lake at one time in recent geological history. Descend and cross the wooden bridge over the Cho La Khola. A little further on enter Pheriche [27° 53.54N 86° 49.34E 4,256 metres] (2 hours). There are several lodges including the:
The big peak at 335 degrees is Lobuche.
View from Pheriche Once the home of pastoral yak herders, Pheriche is now the home of the Himalayan Rescue Association's high altitude medical centre, which conveniently has its price list visible. If you ascend too quickly and need their help, make sure you can pay the bills:
Bring your plastic if you need help. There's a free altitude safety talk at 3pm each day in season. Walk up Pheriche's high street and continue up the boulder strewn valley. Cross a stream. Towards the head of the valley reach the village of Pahkdung Kharka, where there is one old style lodge. The village itself is relatively unspoilt and might be a good place to stay. Just beyond the village - the path turns right up a steep, wide inclined path by the side of the start of the terminal moraine of the Khumbu Glacier. Continue up the path, until it turns left over the crest of the ancient lateral moraine. The lower lodge of Dugla can be seen by the stream. You can see the Cho La in the distant west from here. Cross the bridge into Dugla, which consists of a couple of lodges:
It's a bit rough and ready here, but that's half the fun. It's well positioned to get you directly to Gorak Shep tomorrow. |
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© Ian Johnson 2003 |
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Comment by: Stephen |
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Surprising you suggest Pangboche to Dughla. Do you suggest in one day. to Gorek Shep. I would have thought Pangboche to Pheriche/Dingboche more typocal , then Lobuche then Gorak Shep a more practical option. Perhaps stop in Dughla if acclimatisation is a problem. |
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Comment by: Dave |
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Yes I think for those coming up direct from Namche stopping in Periche or Dingboche is required. Remember that Ian is coming down from Gokyo so already aclimatized at this altitude |
