Everest Trek


 Day 20 Pangboche to Thugla

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27° 51.23N

27° 55.36N


86° 47.59E

86° 48.48E


3,937 metres

4,608 metres


671 metres

Time (excluding rests)

3 hours 25 minutes


9 kilometres

Ideal trekking...

In ideal scenery

The Lhotse Nuprse ridge

Magnificent views up the valley

There's art on the boulders

Mysterious boulder littering the karka

Ama Dablam is the dominant scenic peak

Distant view of Pheriche


The bridge into Pheriche

A poster of an Indian film star inside a lodge in Pheriche

The YetiZone yak is a greedy bugger

The path beyond Pheriche

The site of Thugla

Yak Lodge at Thugla


     Today you will leave the luxury of Pangboche for the more primitive accommodation at the snout of the Khumbu Glacier.

View from Dugla - left to right - Ama Dablam, Tawoche and Jobo Laptshan

     Leave the village past a stream and a prayer wall. As you walk up the Khumbu Valley, you must be looking at one of the best views anywhere in the world. With magnificent views of Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse and Ama Dablam and the stream below, and the scent of conifers in the air, this is perfect trekking.

     Pass a small tea house (45 minutes). Continue onwards through the village of Shoare with its many lodges:

  • Sonam Lodge and Restaurant
  • Miy Langsharma Lodge and Restaurant
  • Everest Restaurant
  • Pemba Temba's Shamre Rest Stop
  • Wang Chu Restaurant

     Just past the village cross a landslide. From here you can see Tengboche in the distance behind. The peak of Tawoche can be seen on the left. Enter a broad open area with stunted juniper and bilberries, which are ripe after the monsoon. Huge boulders lie strewn around from a long departed glacier. Pass a series of rocks carved with Buddhist mantras. From this area, Everest is hidden by the Nuptse - Lhotse ridge.

     Reach a river confluence just below an old terminal moraine by a field with a small house (1 hour 45 minutes). The path forks here - take the left hand fork (the right hand fork goes to Dingboche).

Dingboche Junction with the Nuptse Lhotse ridge in the background

     Cross a col with chorten and prayer flags. At this point the wide open valley and Pheriche comes into view [27° 52.98N 86° 49.12E 4,199 metres] (2 hours 15 minutes). From a distance Pheriche resembles Tal in the Annapurna region - both look like wild west towns set on an open plain. This region may have been a lake at one time in recent geological history. Descend and cross the wooden bridge over the Cho La Khola. A little further on enter Pheriche [27° 53.54N 86° 49.34E 4,256 metres] (2 hours). There are several lodges including the:

  • Khumbu Lodge
  • Pumo Ri Lodge
  • Ama Dablam Lodge
  • Shangri La Lodge
  • Everest Summit Lodge
  • Himalayan Hotel
  • Snowland Lodge
  • Valley View Lodge
  • Panorama Lodge
  • Mount Kailash Lodge
  • Tahmserku Lodge

     The big peak at 335 degrees is Lobuche.

View from Pheriche

     Once the home of pastoral yak herders, Pheriche is now the home of the Himalayan Rescue Association's high altitude medical centre, which conveniently has its price list visible. If you ascend too quickly and need their help, make sure you can pay the bills:

  • Medical consultation - US$40 - rising to US$ 80 after hours or for a house call
  • Gammow bag - US$50 per house
  • Evacuation arrangement - US$100
  • Oxygen per hour - US$50

     Bring your plastic if you need help. There's a free altitude safety talk at 3pm each day in season.

     Walk up Pheriche's high street and continue up the boulder strewn valley. Cross a stream.

     Towards the head of the valley reach the village of Pahkdung Kharka, where there is one old style lodge. The village itself is relatively unspoilt and might be a good place to stay.

     Just beyond the village - the path turns right up a steep, wide inclined path by the side of the start of the terminal moraine of the Khumbu Glacier. Continue up the path, until it turns left over the crest of the ancient lateral moraine. The lower lodge of Dugla can be seen by the stream.

     You can see the Cho La in the distant west from here.

     Cross the bridge into Dugla, which consists of a couple of lodges:

  • Yak Lodge
  • Pumo Ri Lodge (established 1993, but looks more like it was in 1593)

     It's a bit rough and ready here, but that's half the fun. It's well positioned to get you directly to Gorak Shep tomorrow.

© Ian Johnson 2003

Comment by: Stephen     
Date of trek: March 2002
Date of comment: 7 September 2005

Surprising you suggest Pangboche to Dughla. Do you suggest in one day. to Gorek Shep. I would have thought Pangboche to Pheriche/Dingboche more typocal , then Lobuche then Gorak Shep a more practical option. Perhaps stop in Dughla if acclimatisation is a problem.

Comment by: Dave     
Date of trek: April 2004/December 2004
Date of comment: 20 November 2005

Yes I think for those coming up direct from Namche stopping in Periche or Dingboche is required. Remember that Ian is coming down from Gokyo so already aclimatized at this altitude

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