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Day 16 Machermo to Gokyo |
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Hyperbole special - the mighty Everest towers over neighbouring peaks - as seen from the summit of Gokyo Ri.
On the path to Gokyo
The path climbs a steep stair way
Cross a bridge just before the first lake
A rock carved lodge advert
The first lake marks the beginning of more level ground
Gokyo village lies between a glacier and a lake
Another gratuitous picture of Everest
Nuptse is the peak on Everest's right
Cho Oyu is the peak on the far left of the view
Gyachung Kang 7,922 metres, is just to the right of Cho Oyu
Cholatse's north face is mindbogglingly steep
Taboche is to the right of Cholatse
Kantega and Thamserku |
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Today's trek climbs steeply to reach the Gokyo Glacier and its lakes.
The panoramic view from Gokyo Ri Climb up the moraine on the far side of Machermo village and then walk gently downhill to the village of Fanka [27° 54.85N 86° 42.93E 4,472 metres] (1 hour).
When I passed this way, one of these hotels had a malfunctioning kerosene stove that was giving off dangerous carbon monoxide. Any trekkers staying here would be in real danger of suffocation. The path continues past the Fanka Yak farm downhill for a short way, and then uphill through the moraine boulder field. The path enters a very steep region where the path is cut into a cliff (2 hours). Arrive at the foot of a rock staircase and begin the slow climb upwards (2 hours 45 minutes). After another 15 minutes the path emerges at a wooden bridge over the Dudh Kosi, now only a clear stream. This is a most beautiful place, and marks the first of the Gokyo Lakes, populated with its amazing high altitude ducks. There must be a warm underground spring here for this lake unfreezes sooner than the others and so supports the ducks. Continue along the path, between the valley side and the moraine of the Gokyo Glacier on your right. The second Gokyo Lake is a lot larger (4 hours) and was frozen in April. Continue to walk along the well defined path. Just before Gokyo, there is a chautara, or resting place, covered with prayer flags. From here you can see Gokyo village itself, between the third Gokyo lake, and the Gokyo Glacier. Arrive at Gokyo after a total of five and a half hours. There are enough lodges here:
Gokyo Lake in spring Just a very short walk uphill to the east behind the lodges lies the top of the Gokyo lateral moraine. After resting, walk up and take a look at the magnificent view. Don't go too near to the edge of the moraine, as it is very steep, high and unstable.
View onto the Gokyo Glacier from behind the lodges The Ascent of Gokyo Ri 5,333 metres Ascent 568 metres 2 kilometre round trip
Panorama during the ascent of Gokyo Ri Cross the stepping stones over the Dudh Kosi, and begin the walk up the hill of Gokyo Ri. Zigzag up the ridge on the front of the hill. After about 2 hours of ascent, the tip of Everest can be seen in the east. Follow the well worn path to the summit of Gokyo Ri [27° 57.65N 86° 41.13E 5,333 metres] (3 hours 30 minutes). On the summit, which is more of a ridge, there is a gateway of sorts, with prayer flags stretched across. Walk along the ridge for a while, hopping from boulder to boulder and you'll easily find a quiet place to be alone and view Everest. Take your time, it's a marvellous view, possibly the best on Earth. To take the photographs for the web site, and make the drawings and the video, I had to climb Gokyo Ri three times. I enjoyed every minute. The descent takes about 2 hours.
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© Ian Johnson 2003 |
